Fiber, Hair, Wool, Fur, Fleece, and Vlies?

So what’s the correct term?

For many breeders, alpaca farming is not just a passionate endeavor, it’s also a meticulous craft where small distinctions matter. This is also reflected in the specific terminology used within the alpaca community.
So why do we say "guard hair" but refer to individual hairs as fibers? In fact, every fiber can be considered a hair. "Fiber" is a broader scientific term. Fibers are long, thin structures and can be categorized into natural and synthetic fibers. Alpaca hair is therefore a natural fiber of animal origin.

The use of the word "fiber" instead of "hair" has been largely influenced by the professional alpaca industry in the United States, where people commonly speak of "fiber", which translates directly to the German "Faser". When the hairs or fibers are still attached to the skin, we refer to it as a "fleece" or "coat", regardless of whether the skin is still on the living animal or used as a rug.

In professional terminology, calling it "alpaca wool" is a no-go. The term "wool" should only be used to describe the fleece of sheep—or the spun yarn made from alpaca fiber. This leads to further linguistic complications: Cashmere is marketed as a type of wool, but technically it belongs to the category of fine animal hairs. When referring to the coat of an alpaca, the correct term is "fleece". But beware! There’s double confusion here: in German, "Vlies" (fleece) should not be confused with the material commonly known as "Fleece" in jackets and pullovers—those are synthetic fabrics made from polyester. In English, however, "fleece" corresponds to the German "Vlies". If you want to buy what’s called a "Fleece-Shirt" in German, look for "Polar Fleece" in English-speaking countries.

Confusing? It gets more complicated: "Nonwoven fabric" (Vliesstoff in German) is a term for various materials that are bonded together in some way but not woven, knitted, or braided. Disposable gowns, insulation materials, and filters fall into this category—and they have nothing to do with alpacas or sheep.

Strangely enough, the word "fleece" actually originates from the Latin word vellus, meaning sheep's wool. The most confusion tends to arise around the naming of individual hairs. Primary hairs are often referred to as guard hairs, bristles, or lead hairs—with slight differences in meaning. That’s why, in fleece assessment, it’s best to distinguish between primary and secondary hairs. Long, visible hairs should be called guard hairs. The term "medullated" is often used prematurely and without sufficient evidence. Whether a hair contains a medulla or not can only be determined in light-colored fibers using specialized technical tools. Outside of the lab, any statements about the core of a fiber are pure speculation.

Excerpt from: PASSION FOR ALPACAS – CARE, BREEDING & SHOWS by editor and author Show Judge Robin Näsemann, 2020